It’s 10am on a Saturday morning in the Marais.
I feel rested, for some reason not hungover, and ready for a day in the life of London’s favourite wannabe Parisienne. Curtains slightly ajar, the sunlight streamed in as I lay in bed, thriving and luxuriating in my freedom (and my king-sized mattress). As I opened my windows, a smile slowly crept up and widened on my lips and in my eyes as I was greeted good morning by a ceiling of the brightest azure. The cool, crisp air mingled with cigarettes, espresso and perfume fluttered from Rue de Turenne straight into my bedroom window. Inhaling, I felt an overwhelming sense of calm, yet excitement.
This sultry simplicity was my new normal.
After a minute of sticking my head out the window and indulging in the sunlight kissing my face, a number of trivial, worry-free thoughts fleeted through my mind such as 'I wonder if that baguette is still fresh enough to eat (I had only bought it a day before)', and 'can I leave it another few days to wash my sheets?'. Washing sheets took a lot of courage in my little flat, but every time I did I truly did feel intensely in control of my life.
Next on the agenda was getting dressed: a real joy in Paris. I remember leaving all but one pair of sweatpants at home, and those were saved for emergency breakdowns. I threw on a pair of Levi 501s, boots, dad’s cashmere, and my leather aviator jacket, trying my hardest to not try at all. The Parisian mantra. A dab of my favourite musky perfume oil on the nape of my neck and my wrists, and a dash of crimson red lipstick, and I was out the door. Coffee. I needed coffee, I hate to admit it but I did start to feel a hangover creeping up on me, making me conscious of my ageing soul. Remnants of lime scooting across Paris, a very silly idea induced by one too many glasses of some cheap pastis at 3am started to flashback in my mind. But today was a new day.
I feel rested, for some reason not hungover, and ready for a day in the life of London’s favourite wannabe Parisienne. Curtains slightly ajar, the sunlight streamed in as I lay in bed, thriving and luxuriating in my freedom (and my king-sized mattress). As I opened my windows, a smile slowly crept up and widened on my lips and in my eyes as I was greeted good morning by a ceiling of the brightest azure. The cool, crisp air mingled with cigarettes, espresso and perfume fluttered from Rue de Turenne straight into my bedroom window. Inhaling, I felt an overwhelming sense of calm, yet excitement.
This sultry simplicity was my new normal.
After a minute of sticking my head out the window and indulging in the sunlight kissing my face, a number of trivial, worry-free thoughts fleeted through my mind such as 'I wonder if that baguette is still fresh enough to eat (I had only bought it a day before)', and 'can I leave it another few days to wash my sheets?'. Washing sheets took a lot of courage in my little flat, but every time I did I truly did feel intensely in control of my life.
Next on the agenda was getting dressed: a real joy in Paris. I remember leaving all but one pair of sweatpants at home, and those were saved for emergency breakdowns. I threw on a pair of Levi 501s, boots, dad’s cashmere, and my leather aviator jacket, trying my hardest to not try at all. The Parisian mantra. A dab of my favourite musky perfume oil on the nape of my neck and my wrists, and a dash of crimson red lipstick, and I was out the door. Coffee. I needed coffee, I hate to admit it but I did start to feel a hangover creeping up on me, making me conscious of my ageing soul. Remnants of lime scooting across Paris, a very silly idea induced by one too many glasses of some cheap pastis at 3am started to flashback in my mind. But today was a new day.
As I closed the courtyard door behind me, I was greeted with the Marais village locals, an elderly woman I saw almost every day, whose facial expression never seemed to change, and a shy little man who worked at a florist, he always smiled at me mid-floral arrangement. I directed myself round the corner to my local cafe where I had become friends with the barista, a tiny little spot I’d go to alone every Saturday morning for a cafe creme and a catch up with Alex. She made really great coffee. The place had a distinct charm, it was an old “cordonnerie” (shoe repair shop), with a run-down wood exterior and only about 3 little stools inside. Very exclusive. As Alex and I chatted away about the weekly happenings, gossip at the Vogue office, and which celebrities she had served coffee that week, I wondered what I’d do with my day.
Paris felt like my playground, I relished in having unplanned days with lazy coffee mornings, especially those with perfect cold blue skies where it was just crisp enough to wear a really good jacket.
The post-coffee buzz hit me as I traipsed along Rue de Bretagne, cigarette in hand, into the monthly flea market. Flea markets are my haven. I convinced myself that the sheer joy of sifting through fur coats, designer handbags, and clunky gold jewellery was an extremely valid creative outlet. My inner stylist was let loose, free of judgment and confines. As I strolled along, eyeing up every potential gem and conjuring up lookbooks in my head, Charles Aznavour’s La Bohème started playing on the corner of Rue du Temple from an old vinyl.
In the modest temperature of 10 degrees, an intimidatingly beautiful lady was contemplating buying a very thin chain knit gold backless cocktail dress that she was modelling - she appeared to come straight out of the J’adore Dior commercial. My mind drifted off to wearing the dress in summer, barefoot in a field with long grass… I gazed at her in awe, thinking it’d be criminal for her to not buy it.
Further along my expedition, a man playing the harp punctuated the fresh late afternoon air with a soft melody, making crowds stop and smile.
Streets upon streets of treasure hunting awaited me, and I very impulsively bought myself a vintage Dior saddle bag - it gave me a look that I simply couldn’t say no to. It was love at first sight, and it definitely played hard to get on me and my intern salary. But it was almost my birthday. This incredibly stressful day was topped off with a big glass of red with friends. Life really seemed to be playing its cards right.
The golden 5pm light trickled upon the city, just as I was comfortably sat in an ideal spot for my favourite activity: people watching at a terrasse. Hours seemed to pass with laughter and judgement of everyone who passed by.
After a few glasses, I noticed that twilight had become night, and the crowds changed seamlessly from families and lovers to nocturnal animals. Men in fur coats and earrings chatted to scantily clad women with enviable cheekbones and long, thin cigarettes in hand, with inimitable attitudes to match. I had dragged my friends off to a different bar, we were drunk on life and Bordeaux by this point. We made friends with strangers, casually sharing lighters and anecdotes. We danced in the crowded bar to Dalida and Madonna, and I then saw someone I knew and had previously found very attractive. We had had eye sex in the past - he was chic, arrogant, and French as f***. He would have been a good end to a great day.
Five minutes and a large gulp of a G&T later, I plucked up the courage to look for him inside. As I was on my way to the end of the bar where he was sat, I bumped into someone else, who instantly made me forget that the other guy existed. I turned around and said ‘sorry’ or something of the sort to this man. Then I noticed how incredibly handsome he was. He replied in English but had an accent, I couldn’t pinpoint it, but he wasn’t French. We started speaking, and I felt a spark that I hadn’t felt in a very long time. I couldn’t explain to myself why I was so intrigued by this person. He was alluring but calm, I wanted to know more.
After talking for a while, I found I didn’t want to stop talking to him, so I asked if he wanted a cigarette, a textbook yet a highly effective flirting tactic.
It was raining outside. We stood under the heated terrasse, smoked a Vogue, and the conversation was flowing. I realised I had been away from my friends for a while, then one of them found me, and mouthed ‘HE’S SO HOT’, with a gaping jaw from behind the guy. Trying not to laugh, I casually introduced her to the mystery man, and then she left us to continue doing what we were doing.
I still couldn’t quite tell if he was flirting with me, or if we were just getting on very well. I hoped it was the former. Ten minutes or so later, I noticed my hair getting wet, and my mascara smudging slightly from the rain, and I did have to get back to my friends, so we said bye, and I went in for la bise, (a kiss on each cheek).
But then he kissed me.
I was caught off guard, in the very purest sense of the phrase.
It was a real kiss, the kind of kiss that is very difficult to have with a stranger. It also didn’t feel non-committal like most kisses with strangers tend to feel.
I needed more. It was exciting and new, yet disconcertingly familiar - I already felt invested.
I conveniently bumped into him moments later, and the next thing I know is that we are in an Uber with my friends, on the way to a club. In the red, velvet-clad room we danced, kissed, and talked. Back at my flat, I didn’t notice the time go by so fast, but by the time we had left the living room it was 8am. We spent all night talking. Sat by my window with a glass of red and a cigarette, I played Suzanne by Leonard Cohen, one of my favourite songs, and a song that I always associate with red wine and cigarettes by that particular window.
He said that this was also his smoking song. I felt like I knew this stranger already. I was scared by how much I already liked him.
The next day, after only two hours of sleep, he left me in my bed with a kiss.
I spent all day feeling disgustingly hungover, I dragged myself to the loo to throw up and felt too sick to eat. I had a rehearsal for a play that I just couldn’t go to because the state of my head was too terrible. I managed to scoff a bowl of penne arrabiatta in bed that afternoon, and then remembered I had a birthday party to go to that night. After a lot of water and sleep, I dressed up again, I paired a vintage corset that really struck the balance of renaissance chic and breast-accentuation with flared jeans. I checked my phone, and just as I was leaving the man texted me, he wanted to meet again that night. I got butterflies.
The birthday party was on the border of the 7th and 15th arrondissements, I was in the 3rd. I was late to meet my friends, and I really could not imagine drinking alcohol ever again.
At the party, I made small talk with the group of French strangers, ate some pizza, drank lemonade, and I had left by five past midnight, post a skewiff rendition of ‘joyeux anniversaire’.
I metro-ed back to meet the man at a little bar near my flat, and as I was walking there I felt a pang of nervousness, what if it wasn’t the same as last night, why did I care so much, will he stay at my flat again?
I found him at the back of the bar, still as hot as I remembered. Good. I managed to drink about three-quarters of an Aperol spritz, a rogue choice for 1am in November, I know. He did, shockingly, end up in my bed again, after long conversations about anything and everything. It was strange opening up so much to a total stranger, it was strange that it didn’t feel strange at all.
As we lay in my bed, it felt intimate, and I suddenly felt very disorientated that he was leaving Paris the next day and I may never see him again.
Our kisses got slower and more tender, and the conversation became deeper and more intimate. This was not something I experienced every day. In fact, I don’t think I’d ever instantly felt like this with someone.
Those two nights felt like one really long, surreal night.
When we said goodbye, my initial reaction to what had just happened was contentedness, I knew it would be a fond memory. But then my mind started spiralling into thinking that I had to see him again, when or where I had no idea… but my rationality pushed that thought away, I told myself it was a really good whirlwind romance, and that I’d always smile when I thought about it.
The next day I was sat at my desk at 10am, recounting to my friends the delicious story of my weekend in my not-so-perfect French. I couldn’t concentrate all day.
6 months later, the rest is history.